Ushuaia is something of a contradiction in terms: a city in the middle of nowhere. Its fascinating history is intertwined with early attempts to explore Antarctica – you may hear the ghostly footsteps of long-gone sailors behind you.It’s a remarkable setting for a city, with an authentic ‘ends of the earth’ feel to it. In good weather, the clear blue skies and rugged peaks make for incredible views; when the weather closes in, the brightly colored buildings of this coastal city lend a welcome contrast to grey skies.You’re likely to see icebreakers and cruise ships in the harbour – Ushuaia is the starting point for modern-day explorers and tourists heading off to see the incredible wildlife and icescapes of the Falkland Islands (word to the wise: the locals call them Las Malvinas; these windswept islands are still a political hot potato), South Georgia and onwards to the Antarctic Peninsula.Cold this region may be, but (like everywhere else in Argentina), you’ll be assured a warm welcome.