The fact that Rwanda is one of the world’s safest countries means that the capital city, Kigali, can be explored on foot without undue worry. The mosaic of coloured rooftops, interspersed by tongues of tropical forest, at first looks like many other African cities. But take a closer look and you’ll find a city that’s conscious of its heritage, but modernising fast.Rwanda’s government is recognised as particularly progressive, and Kigali is their showpiece. There are pleasant, car-free areas – and plastic bags are banned. All Rwandans are encouraged to participate in community service, and there’s a real sense of pulling together.Modern buildings are springing up, and Kigali has a particularly lively café and arts scene. Some of the buzz can be attributed to the excellent local coffee, but much of it comes from the energetic and entrepreneurial people who are transforming Kigali into a very livable city.Visiting the Genocide Museum is important to understand the events of 1994 – and to see how far this wonderful country has come since those dark days.

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